Dim Sum Dining at Lin Heung Restaurant in Hong Kong

By Mark Wiens 29 Comments

Arriving in Hong Kong, I really don’t care, or even think about anything else other than “Dim Sum.” I dream about it for weeks in advance, think about it on the flight in, and start to get extremely anxious on the train to the city from the airport.  Getting off the train at Central Hong Kong station, my mind is made up and I make a bee-line for these precious dumplings.  I don’t speak or talk to anyone (if you meet me in this stage, you might think I’m rude), I cut people off on the sidewalk, just focusing on the map and the destination that I pinpointed.

This time round, I was on my way to Lin Heung Restaurant, a short distance from Hong Kong Central.  Closely following the map, I arrived within what could be record time.  I double stepped up the staircase and to my delight, I saw a host of people shouting, reading newspapers, demanding food rudely, but most importantly of all…shoving dim sum into their mouths at all different paces.


I approached aggressively, remembering how to fight in a buffet line, and the waiter ushered us to a shared table where two seats were available.  I was so excited now that I began to get the munchie shakes and my stomach started feeling ticklish.


I sat down, grabbed my notes (I had scribbled down my favorite dishes in Cantonese) and tried to get the attention of a grumpy dim sum cart pusher.  I asked her what she was serving and she barked back at me with disgust, motioning for me to get out of my chair and take a look for myself.  I was out of my seat within seconds, trying to blend in with the rowdy crowd and choose a few items that looked delicious.  My first item was a sticky rice dish in a noodle wrapper.


Next came a plate of steamed rice noodles called Cheung Fun, filled with pork and sausage and doused in dark soy sauce.

Cheung Fun

The happiest worker in the restaurant was working the bamboo steamers in the back kitchen and when I made an effort to snap a picture, he actually lifted the lid and gave me a quick smile in the midst of the chaos.


Being patient for a cart to come around, I finally located one of my all-time favorite dim sum dishes known as San Juk Guen.  A little bit of minced pork, shrimp, and spices, wrapped into a bean curd burrito and steamed with soy flavored sauce.

San Juk Guen

After asking for a few minutes my actual all-time favorite arrived in front of me, like a gleaming treasure chest.  I was like a little child on Christmas Day, eagerly tearing off the lotus leaf packaging and getting to the good stuff.

Lou Mai Gai consists of glutinous rice, chicken, and Chinese sausage wrapped into a lotus leaf and steamed altogether so the oils and flavors are crammed together and not even a trace of flavor is lost.  I could eat this dish everyday for the rest of my life.

Lou Mai Gai

Then came a few classics like Har Gau shrimp dumplings and an order of deep fried rice flour dumplings filled with pork.


I thought I had given up and eaten my fill when Char Siu Bau (steamed pork buns) rolled around and at the last minute, I ordered a couple for dessert!

Char Siu Bau

The dishwasher wasn’t overly pleased at her picture being taken (not sure if it was because I took a picture or that she was on dish washing duty?)


7 bamboo steamers later, I was back to my normal relaxed self, ready to walk around at a normal pace and be polite in the process.


After a satisfying meal of some of Hong Kong’s finest dim sum and a great dim sum dining experience, the bill for 2 people tallied to a grand total of $114 HKD ($14.70 USD), and I was a very happy man.  Lin Heung Teahouse is a traditional dim sum eatery, lots of noise, busy at all times of the day, and not the friendliest of service.  These conditions make for a superb dim sum culinary adventure in the heart of Hong Kong!

Tip: Amidst the confusion and loudness, it’s not too important to know the names of the dishes you want to order, simply use the look and point method for best results.

Lin Heung Restaurant and Bakery

160-164 Wellington Street

Hong Kong Central

View Lin Heung Dim Sum in a larger map

From Hong Kong Central it’s easy to walk to the corner of Wellington Street and Aberdeen

-Migration Mark

29 comments. I'd love to hear from you!

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  • ylfriends

    11 years ago

    Is this the place where even celebs go to eat? My last few visits didn’t include visits to restaurants that serve dim sum 🙁
    The last place I visited was in Chai Wan I think? It was on the end of the red line, and they used push carts too but it was spacier, not as loud but vibrant enough. You bet the food was the most delicious..

    • Mark Wiens

      10 years ago

      Hmm, not sure exactly, but this is one of the well known traditional spots… but I’m sure there are many.

  • Jacqueline

    11 years ago

    Lin Heung was a good choice. It’s one of the oldest and probably, one of the most famous dim sum establishments. It’s almost always packed. The last time I was in HK, I think it was the only restaurant that I found that still had the push carts. I had to cringe a little at your description of the service. It’s unfortunate that it’s not the friendliest but I guess it’s hard for people to be friendly in such a chaotic environment.

    • Mark Wiens

      11 years ago

      Hi Jacqueline, thank you for reading, great to hear you have been here too. Despite the service, the food is still wonderful!

  • The GypsyNesters

    13 years ago

    We have tried Dim Sum in Victoria, BC, San Francisco and New York. Would love to try the real thing. Totally agree about the Lou Mai Gai “could eat this dish everyday for the rest of my life.”

    • Mark Wiens

      13 years ago

      Great David! The cities you mentioned though, might have HK rivaling dim sum! Hope you are able to get to HK sometime for some serious dim sum dining!

    • Kwong

      12 years ago

      I know this is an old thread but I thought I’d put in my two cents.

      Lin Heung is my favorite place in the world for Dim Sum. I’ve had better dim sum in other places, but never with the same atmosphere.

      Your article is excellent. Thanks for sharing.


    • Mark Wiens

      12 years ago

      Great Kwong, thanks for taking the time to share that. I thought it was great as well, both the atmosphere and the food!

  • Electric Oven

    13 years ago

    most travel sites have very nice webpages and their services are very nice too. ,*’

  • bonnie

    14 years ago

    hmm..i should check this place out bcoz it’s very rare to have dim sum pushers

    • Mark Wiens

      14 years ago

      Yes Bonnie, this place still uses the convenient old-fashioned push-carts!

  • Zablon Mukuba

    14 years ago

    the food looks really delicious, you must really love dimsum when am there i will try it out

  • Andi

    14 years ago

    I LOVE dimsum, I eat it nearly every weekend in San Francisco, but nothing beats Hong Kong!

    • Mark Wiens

      14 years ago

      Awesome Andi! San Francisco does come pretty close though..!

  • Mark Wiens

    14 years ago

    Nice! Glad you have also partaken of and experienced that glorious dim sum at Lin Heung! Have fun in SA, hope you can find some Durian…haha!

  • Jodi (legalnomads)

    14 years ago

    Oh Mark, I’ve eaten at this place as well and it was glorious. And now I’m in South America and drooling over your delicious, steamed rice treats! Fun descriptions and the pictures brought back a multitude of memories. Looking forward to your next post. -J.