While the quality and taste of the food is obviously a fundamental part of any dining establishment, it’s also the ambiance that plays a part in the excitement of eating.
When a street food stall has both outstanding food and a unique setting or character, that’s when you’ve found a WINNER.
I normally share most of my Bangkok street food excursions on my other blog, EatingThaiFood.com, but this well known local curry stall is so good, I decided to write about it on Migrationology too.
Located in Chinatown Bangkok, in front of the most perfect aged antique wooden doors, at 4 pm each day (apart from Monday), they start to wheel the food carts and carry bucket-loads of curry to the side of the street.
A few stacks of red plastic chairs are rolled onto the sidewalk, which when busy, become the musical chairs.
Well before opening time, a few of the brave and proud (myself included), wait, longing to have first dibs on the days’ selection.
The last time I went to Khao Gaeng Jake Puey ข้าวแกงเจ๊กปุ้ย (เจ้เฉี๋ย), the man in the khaki suit was sitting loyally (he may have even brought his own chair!?), waiting patiently for probably an hour before the food was ready.
He knows good food, and he was dedicated.
The customers include quite a diverse demographic of local Thais.
Being in Chinatown, many Chinese looking men stroll in, but motorbike taxi drivers, tuk tuk drivers, ambulance paramedics, gold dealer, and even some people that looked as though they’d just woken from a slumber, all take part in the action.
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What is khao kaeng (ข้าวแกง)?
In Thailand, khao kaeng (can also be spelled “gaeng”) really just means rice curry, and that’s exactly what it is. You get a plate of rice and choose your toppings.
For round one, I choose a plate of their famous kaeng kari (yellow curry แกงกะหรี่หมู), topped with slices of Chinese sausage and a few pieces of caramelized pork ribs (seekong moo ob ซี่โครงหมูอบ).
Kaeng kari (yellow curry แกงกะหรี่หมู) is a mild coconut milk based Thai curry, and the version at Khao Gaeng Jake Puey ข้าวแกงเจ๊กปุ้ย (เจ้เฉี๋ย) is incredibly smooth.
With a number of sighs of delight, plate one disappeared into my stomach, and I just couldn’t stop there.
The ribs in particular, were spectacular.
I decided to have an entire new plate, this time loaded with stir fried crab (pad boo ผัดปู), another popular item I observed many happy men surrounding me chowing down on, and a stewed egg on the side (kai paloe ไข่พะโล้).
The crab was equally delightful, pure crab steak stir fried with a hint of chili, pea eggplant, and broken pieces of fungus. It was rich and buttery over my rice.
The egg was a little rubbery, I’m not always a fan of kai paloe (my wife is the one who really wanted that!).
But alas, I could take it no longer and mid-way through the crab I asked the waiter to dish me another small pile of the mouthwatering ribs (seekong moo ob ซี่โครงหมูอบ).
The ribs, were of course, mind blowing.
Why you may need to play musical chairs…
In Thai, the restaurant is nicknamed the rice and curry musical chairs (kow-ee don-tree ร้านข้าวแกงเก้าอี้ดนตรี).
Why?
Because when Khao Gaeng Jake Puey ข้าวแกงเจ๊กปุ้ย (เจ้เฉี๋ย) gets busy, customers grab their plates of deliciousness, and walk around the red plastic stools, ready to pounce on a seat as soon as the music turns and someone gets up.
Of course, you could also just forego all hopes of sitting down and just stand while eating, a common dining practice in India!
Here’s the video of eating at Khao Gaeng Jake Puey ข้าวแกงเจ๊กปุ้ย (เจ้เฉี๋ย).
Watch it now…
Plates of Thai curry and rice at Khao Gaeng Jake Puey ข้าวแกงเจ๊กปุ้ย (เจ้เฉี๋ย) cost 60 THB, higher than other street food rice and curry stalls due to better ingredients and also that’s is in Yaowarat (video).
Open hours: 4 pm – 9 pm everyday but Monday, but they might sell out before 9 pm, so it’s best to arrive just as they open when the food is fresh.
Prices: 60 Thai Baht per plate, more expensive than other Thai khao kaeng stalls, but well worth the price
How to get there: Restaurant is located in Yaowarat, right at the corner of Charoen Krung and Mangkon
ข้าวแกงเจ๊กปุ้ย (เจ้เฉี๋ย)
ซอยมังกร ถนนเจริญกรุง แขวงสัมพันธวงศ์ เขตสัมพันธวงศ์
โทร. 02-222-5229
เปิด อังคาร – อาทิตย์ เวลา 16.00 – 21.00 น.
ข้าวราดแกงกะหรี่หมู + ซี่โครงหมูอบ + กุนเชียง 60 บาท
ข้าวราดไข่พะโล้ + ผัดปู + ซี่โครงหมูอบ 60 บาท
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High Rated Gabru
2 years ago
Cool blog. Thanks for info.
sankar singh
2 years ago
nice pictures along with blog content
Vishal
4 years ago
Thanks for share.
Uli
7 years ago
Hey Mark,
I’m in Bangkok at the moment and walked to this spot on Monday (accident!) and Tuesday and it wasn’t there on both days. There were some chairs stapled but of various colours and way less than visible on your pictures. Did they move? It seems there is now a spice stand on the corner in front of the iconic wooden doors.
Instead I then went to the Ba Mee place close by which was a very heartwarming experience.
I’ll be around a couple of times the coming two months, do you know if the stand is still alive or where else in Bangkok or Chiang Mai to eat a really good curry?
Greetings from Ari,
Uli.
Paulina
7 years ago
Hi Mark! I love your blog and your vids, they are incredible 🙂 My husband and I lived in Bangkok for 2 years, (now we are living in Nairobi and missing the Thai food tremendously) and I am wondering, have you ever tried the curry dishes at the restaurant Baan Ajarn, located on Soi Rangnam, almost at the corner with Ratchaprarop? The restaurant is over 25 years old and they make the best curry we ever had in Thailand. Their green curry chicken, green curry shrimp and red curry duck are their specialties and they are seriously addictive 🙂 Thanks again for your awesome videos!
fred
8 years ago
Mark Wiens, Mark Wiens, what are you doing to me! I just watched your video about Khao Gaeng Jake Puey and i wished I already was in Bangkok, eating out. I hope i can convince my wife and children to join me in the search for delicious food (and not only for cheap watches abnd other junk they like to buy). Thanks a lot!
Tuanny Gubert
8 years ago
Hello Mark
Nice to meet you!!!
I’m brazilian but I live in Bangkok. I love eat and cooking!!!
Your blog is amazing! Im very happy to found it 😉
Mark Wiens
8 years ago
Hi Tuanny, great to hear from you, thank you very much, glad you love cooking and eating too. How long have you lived in Thailand? What do you do?
Tuanny
8 years ago
Hi Mark
I have lived in Thailand for 2 months but my husband has lived here for 5 years 10 years ago, so I’m learning from a great guide. In 2013 we were in Bangkok for holidays and followed your recommendation to eat at the fantastic Tom Yam Kung restaurant off Petchburi Road. We told the owner about your video of his restaurant and he was very happy with your recommendation, many tourists were showing up and we became your big fan 😉
David Kowal
9 years ago
Amazing Mark!!!! Looks just prime and marvelous!!!!! Gotta stop by there soon!!
Mark Wiens
9 years ago
Thanks David, let me know how you enjoy this place. The food is good, but I think the atmosphere is even better here.
Paul Davis
9 years ago
I recently visited after reading this site and oh my goodness such delicious food and a real great experience. Thanks Mark!
Mark Wiens
9 years ago
Hey Paul, glad you found this place and enjoyed it!
Joey Flowers
9 years ago
I’m traveling to Bangkok in about 3 weeks. This just made it on my to-do list. Thanks for all of your wonderful suggestions.
Mark Wiens
9 years ago
Great to hear that Joey, hope you enjoy it!
Ivana
10 years ago
Awesome! Pitty I have read it now, after we visited the area. Will check it out next time 🙂
Thanks for pointing the place out.
Mark Wiens
10 years ago
Thanks Ivana, this place is amazing!
Anwesha
10 years ago
I got excited just from the title of this post. Any place this busy has got to serve incredible food. MArking this for when I visit Bangkok.
Steph (@ 20 Years Hence)
10 years ago
This looks incredible, Mark! Our first time in Bangkok we browsed the Chinatown night market, but I don’t recall seeing this. My parents will be in Bangkok in a few weeks time, however, and you had better believe I’ll be sending them here! (Maybe if I’m lucky I’ll be able to tag along… will keep you posted!)
Mark Wiens
10 years ago
Hey Steph, this place is really awesome, and so entertaining too. If you end up going, let me know how you enjoy it!