
Jaffna has not been a safe place to visit for long.
Located in northern Tamil Sri Lanka, it was a city that was once the second largest on the island.
Due to the Sri Lankan civil war, many people in the region were displaced.
Since the war ended in 2009, Jaffna is slowly recovering, some people are returning and it is now safe to visit the city as a tourist.
Remnants of war exist everywhere.
Jaffna is about 400 kilometers north of Colombo, at the tip of Sri Lanka.
NOTE: I visited Jaffna and northern Sri Lanka in October of 2011. As of writing this, there were very few foreign tourists visiting Jaffna. Jaffna is not included on the normal backpacker route of traveling around Sri Lanka.
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How to get to Jaffna
Train
Since the railroad to Jaffna was destroyed in the war, taking the train all the way is not an option. However, if you really want to utilize the train in Sri Lanka, you can take the train north to the town of Vavuniya and from there catch a bus on to Jaffna.
Sri Lankan’s are extremely friendly, so if you ever have trouble finding the correct bus, just ask around and you will definitely get pointed in the right direction.
Plane
There are daily flights from Colombo to Jaffna via Sri Lanka’s domestic Expo Air. I’m not sure of the exact price but I think it’s well under $100.
You might also check Sri Lanka Lion Air and Serendib Express for flights from Colombo to Jaffna.
Bus
There are a number of different buses from Colombo to Jaffna. The semi-luxury bus is more of just a normal bus and there is also a super-luxury bus.
I personally got to Jaffna on a direct semi-luxury (more like normal bus) overnight bus from Kandy. We left Kandy at about 7 pm and arrived in Jaffna at the highly inconvenient time of 3:30 am!
It wasn’t the smoothest ride, nor the most comfortable bus that I’ve ever been on, but it did only cost me 465 LKR (just over $4)!
NOTE: I didn’t have to apply for any kind of permit to visit Jaffna. Our bus did stop at a checkpoint where I had to exit the bus and some sleepy soldiers took my passport and wrote down its information. Then I got back on the bus and was merrily on the way to Jaffna!

Transportation around Jaffna
Once you’re in Jaffna, there’s no need to use any form of transportation other than bus, rickshaw tuk tuk, or walking on foot.
- Buses in Jaffna are pretty easy to use as most of the signs are written in both Tamil and English. As long as you know where you are going, you can also ask other people and they are almost always ready to help. Rates on local public buses around Jaffna are around 20 LKR ($0.17) per ride.
- Rickshaws are the main mode of hired taxi transportation in Jaffna. Rates should cost less than 100 LKR ($0.88) per 1 kilometer.
- Walking is an alright way to get around Jaffna, but the city is quite spread out.

Jaffna Food
Jaffna being inhabited by Tamil Sri Lankan’s offers a different realm of cuisine from the rest of the country.
Just like all Sri Lankan food, the staple is characterized by rice, assortments of curries and roti flatbreads (among many other things of course). Jaffna however, has a unique set of principle curries and their food is known throughout Sri Lanka to be just a bit spicier!
Here are a few Tamil Sri Lankan specialities:
- Brinjal: braised eggplant
- Jaffna Prawn Curry: tasty and slightly sweet prawns
- Squid Curry (known as cuttlefish in Sri Lanka): similar to the prawn curry but with squid
- Pittu Cakes: rice and coconut steamed cakes
- String Hoppers (Idiyappam): rice noodles
- Pol Sambol: shredded coconut, lime and chili garnish
I particularly fell in love with the Jaffna style candied eggplant known as brinjals. The eggplant is cooked until it’s caramelized yet becomes mushy smooth and full of flavor.
My favorite restaurant (and the one I kept coming back to) was Hotel Rolex – a local style busy Jaffna food restaurant. Hotel Rolex is located across the street from the Jaffna bus station. Full rice and curry meals go for around 200 LKR ($1.76) per person.
Also see this list of 40 delicious Sri Lankan foods.
Where to Stay in Jaffna
- Jaffna YMCA: They had double rooms for 800 LKR ($7), but they were all full when I got there (Kandy Road, Jaffna)
- Green Inn: There are 2 branches of this inn and double rooms go for around 2000 – 3000 LKR ($17.60 – $26.37) per night (No. 60, Kandy Rd, Jaffna | Tel. 021-2223898)
- Sarras Guest House: Double rooms go for around 2000 LKR ($17.60) per night (No 20 Somasundaram, Avenue, Jaffna | Tel. 94718565375)
- Devi Hotel: This is where I stayed when I traveled to Jaffna. It’s a decent quiet hotel in a good location (just down the road from Jaffna YMCA). I got a non-AC double room (2 single beds), with communal bathroom for 1000 LKR ($8.80) per night, but I did haggle for a better price. (37. Kachcheri, Nallur Road, Jaffna | Tel. 021-2223252)
- Gnanams Hotel
Overall, if you are on a budget the lowest prices for double rooms in Jaffna are about 800 – 1000 LKR ($7 – $8.80) per night (split by 2). Other slightly nicer guest house options with AC are in the 2000 – 3000 LKR ($17.60 – $26.37) per night range.
NOTE: Check out these other Jaffna accommodation options.

Jaffna Attractions
- Nallur Kovil Hindu Temple: The most famous and recognized Hindu temple in Jaffna is Nallur Kovil. Best time to visit is between 4 and 5 pm when there are daily ceremonies. Men must take off their shirts, and women must have their legs and shoulders covered to enter. There is no entrance fee, but photography inside is prohibited.
- Pilgrimage to Nainativu Island: Nainativu Island is home to important religious sites of Nagadipa Purana Vihara Buddhist temple and Sri Naga Pooshani Amman Kovil Hindu temple.
- Churches / Cathedrals: The beach side area of Jaffna is home to many Roman Catholics. There are lots and lots of churches and shrines to see.
- Jaffna Public Library: With its interesting history and great architecture, the Jaffna public library is a great place to see.
- Old Buildings and Ruins: As war just ended, Jaffna is still in the process of rebuilding. There are countless building ruins and empty lots.
- Jaffna Fort: Built by the Portuguese, overtaken by the Dutch, and the center of a number of battles, the remnants of the Jaffna Fort is interested to visit.
NOTE: During the time of Hindu oriented festivals, the population of Jaffna swells. Festivals may be a good and interesting time to visit Jaffna, but it may be harder to book a guest house room.
Have you been to Jaffna? Please feel free to contribute any travel / tourist information!
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Dee
11 years ago
Wow! This is a very interesting read! I used to be taken by mom every long school break to Jaffna in the 70s to the mid 80s. I was about 4-12 years old then. We flew in from kuala lumpur to Colombo and then took the “yaal-Devi” train from col-Jaffna. Mom used to put me in the dirtiest clothes (never white!) due to the dust and dirt that blew through the open windows of the train throughout the 8-9 hr journey!(could’ve been more!) In Jaffna we were shuttled via a black Morris Minor to my grandma’s home. The most vivid memory I have of Jaffna town was the Bata shop in the “Bazaar”. Also, we brushed our teeth with ash from the firewood cooking stove, bathed at the well and played with the squirrels! Entertainment each night was to play cards admist a lantern as Jaffna at the time was conserving energy-lights out at about 9pm each night! an experience never to be forgotten was a trip to the Keerimalai Springs. It’s a mineral “swimming pool” that had a men’s pool and a ladies pool. The men’s side was clear and clean water and the ladies pool was like swimming in a fish pond with algae all over! They said it had healing powers! I fell sick for days after that!!
The last holiday I went to Jaffna was in 1984. It was a harrowing experience for a 12 year old due to the several check points between Col-Jaffna. I returned to Sri Lanka as a back packer in 1996 but never went to Jaffna.
After 28years, I will be returning for a visit to this Jaffna that I fondly remember. Never was I a national of Sri Lanka but my memories are filled with this place. I will spend 4 days here and one place I am taking my 12 year old son to, will be “Keerimalai” and “Temple Road, Jaffna”- my late grandparents home.
I am so excited! -Dee-from Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
Mark Wiens
11 years ago
Dee, I can’t thank you enough for sharing your insightful stories about Jaffna. I know what you wrote right here is only scratching the surface of the vivid memories you (and your mom) must have of Jaffna and the surrounding area. I had a fantastic time visiting and it was truly one of the most eye-opening places I’ve been, but it’s so tough and sad to think about the recent history of the area. Great to hear you’ll be going back soon along with your son, I wish you all the best. Have an amazing trip!
For 91 Days in Sri Lanka
12 years ago
We spending 10 nights in Jaffna and planning to see as much as possible and took the time to do so.
That said, what are some other interesting things to see which are not the main attractions?
Really looking forward to your tips.
Mark Wiens
12 years ago
Great to hear that you’re spending so many nights in Jaffna. It really is an interesting place. I’d recommend checking out the pilgrimage to Nainativu (http://migrationology.com/2012/02/pilgrimage-to-nainativu-island-in-northern-sri-lanka-jaffna/) – it’s mostly a really interesting journey to get there from Jaffna. Other than the other tourist attractions I really just enjoyed just waling around, drinking tea and relaxing. Hope you have a great time in Jaffna and let me know how you like it! Also be sure to eat a few meals at Hotel Rolex!
gayE @ pinaytraveljunkie
12 years ago
It’s true, Jaffna is considered to be an off the beaten path. Perhaps part of the reason also is because of its distance from Colombo. Travelers usually end up in closer cities with awesome UNESCO World Heritage sites (like us!). Would have loved to see Jaffna though, if only we had more time.
Mark Wiens
12 years ago
Thanks Gay! And I ran out of time in Sri Lanka before getting to the most famous historical sites that I would have loved to see as well! By the way, awesome job on those Couchsurfing videos!
Robert (@Kenya Safari)
12 years ago
Mark, thats a very vivid guide to Jaffna and will surely serve travellers into this new frontier in Srilanka. Thats a very helpful post and the food also looks very tasty.
Mark Wiens
12 years ago
Thanks a lot of taking a look Robert!
Bhathiya
12 years ago
i think you need to visit to udawalawa , wilpathtu ….. national parks ..
it is really grate ….
Mark Wiens
12 years ago
Yes, would love to in the future.
Lakmal
12 years ago
Yes, I agree with Bhathiya. And also I suggest Mr. Mark to visit Adams Peak in Sri Lanka. December to May is the season. These days its very crowded with Sri Lankan Buddhist pilgrims.
Mark Wiens
12 years ago
Hey Lakmal, I’d love to visit Adam’s Peak, that’s one of the places I really wanted to see, but didn’t have enough time to get there…! Thanks for the comment.
sully86
12 years ago
mark: hey good information laid out here. Sri lanka fast becoming a nice place to visit huh?
Mark Wiens
12 years ago
Definitely! I really enjoyed by trip to Sri Lanka!